Apr 10, Philodendron ‘Prince of Orange’ – How to Grow this Plant Indoors News, Guest Column
April 10, Liberty University
The gardener will never understand the ramifications of the singular thought of: “All plants are different.” Even a novice gardener can see that the weather influences plant growth and development.
Even so, gardening is an always personal endeavor.
Add to this, the impact of soil quality. Almost every succulent or perennial plant must be sustained by more than six times its own weight in soil.
This isn’t about calories. It’s about TLC.
Seed lettuce can only stay alive in the sun for 40 minutes. Roses don’t benefit from shade unless they live in a magnolia tree, which gets shade all day.
Our secret of the most successful and complete gardens is our soil, which should be acidic. Plants that are poorly suited to our soil require lots of water.
Meanwhile, general purpose vegetables (such as carrots, potatoes, turnips and onions) do best in bright, well-drained soil, which is thus rich in natural minerals.
Cultivars of citrus fruits lend themselves well to indoor cultivation. They do well in sandy loam soils, but again, the pH must be neutral.
Citrus fruits that bloom outdoors become soft, misshapen and sickly when these fruits enter the garden.
To enter your outdoor greenhouse for a trial run, plant something such as a lemon or orange outside. If you have a damp, clear plastic container, place the fruit inside as it ripens and begin to irrigate as the fruit opens up, so the fruit develops under a little water.
If you have a shed full of containers or seedlings, plant the asparagus or flowering chrysanthemums right in the container. Just don’t allow the leaves to fall on your skin. Leave the flower buds intact, but bring a broom over the exposed pots if the flowers are hard, crinkly or swiped-off.
Finally, when you are ready to start a garden, don’t always plant where you have planted it in the outdoors. Instead, scatter seeds, preferably within a day of the first day of the rain.
With plants that don’t have an automatic rooting system, water occasionally and place one to two feet from the plant. Provide a sheltered, sheltered/vulnerable soil. If it’s too warm, bring the plant inside. If it’s too cool, move it to a sheltered spot in the shade.
This will do wonders for those hardy, reluctant plants that you think are too hardy, but are very water resistant. They will flower indoors, too. You just won’t see them.
Q: I have unusual philodendrons that bloom when I don’t even put them in the garden. How do I know which ones?
A: Whether the philodendron in question is aggressive or obligates the gardener, you will generally know if a plant is very “tolerant” (improperly rooted) or if it is “aggressive.”
Your philodendron will stay in leaf or flower mode because it is tolerant. If it is aggressive, it will enter leafy or flower mode. The aggressive philodendron might hate it if you don’t handle it with kid gloves.
Q: I had a philodendron and thought it was always green. Now it is mostly orange. Why is it always green and then suddenly orange?
A: It will look really bad if you cut it down to the ground, but you shouldn’t bother because in time it will regenerate.
Consult your philodendron physician for this answer.
Send your gardening questions to Joe Pannunzio, Liberty University, 4575 Leesburg Pike, Lynchburg, VA 23609, or visit www.invinciblehouseplants.com. Pannunzio is an authority on easy and inexpensive garden decor. Contact him at email@example.com.